Tanzania, the Southern Circuit

Tanzania, located in East Africa, is known for its incredible wildlife and iconic landscapes, making it one of the top safari destinations in the world. While the northern circuit, home to the famous Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater, often steals the spotlight, the vast national parks in southern Tanzania offer a more remote and exclusive game-viewing experience. Working in southern Tanzania gave me the perfect opportunity to explore this less-visited region, and enjoy an unforgettable holiday trip with my family during a two-week trip in July 2024. Here is a guide to what the southern part of Tanzania has to offer.

Nyerere national park

Nyerere national park, covering over 30,000 square kilometers, is one of the largest protected wildlife areas in the world. It was established in 2019 after splitting from Selous Game Reserve and is named after Tanzania’s first president, Julius Nyerere. Unlike a game reserve, where regulated hunting is permitted, Nyerere National Park is now fully protected. Because the area has recently been converted into a national park, many animals here are still shy around vehicles, making encounters with wildlife more unpredictable, and in a way, more rewarding. The park infrastructure is still developing, with few paved roads. As a result, visitors explore rougher, less traveled terrain. Uniquely, off-road driving by ranges is still permitted here, a practice banned in most parks, which allows for more flexible safari drives. Furthermore, the Rufiji River, Tanzania's largest river, flows through the park and offers the chance for boat safaris where you can spot hippos, crocodiles, and a variety of other wildlife in their natural habitat.

Nyerere is accessible from Dar es Salaam by air or road. Flights are quick but pricey, while a drive takes 4 to 6 hours depending on traffic and road conditions. Given the poorly marked sandy roads, hiring a local driver is strongly advised.

We stayed at Selous River Camp, located on the banks of the Rufiji River, just a 15-minute drive from the park entrance. It offers stunning views of the river with the sound of hippos in the background. The facilities, including a bar, dining room and swimming pool, create the perfect atmosphere to enjoy the sunset. The service was perfect and they served delicious meals as part of a full-board stay. The camp also organised safaris and boat safaris, including packed lunches for a perfect day out in the park.

Morogoro

Nestled at the foot of the Uluguru mountains, Morogoro is a charming town with a rich agricultural heritage, making it an important regional hub in Tanzania. It is a great place to pause during your travels or to use as a base for exploring the surrounding region.

In Morogoro, you can go on several adventures, hike to the Choma Waterfalls in the Uluguru Mountains, explore the historic Morningside (a former German settlement), or trek through the rainforest to Bondwa Peak for sweeping views. Day trips to nearby Udzungwa or Mikumi National Parks are also within reach.

For groceries and snacks, visit Mpulila or Piras Supermarkets. For fresh produce, head to the open-air market across from CRDB Bank in the city centre. Morogoro also has a 9-hole golf course, where you can rent equipment and request a caddy via @Morogoro_gymkhanaclub.

The town is home to Sokoine University of Agriculture (SUA), a leading institution for agricultural research, pest management, and animal sciences. Visitors can wander through the university’s botanical garden or spot horses roaming the grounds. SUA is also the base for APOPO, the internationally renowned organization that trains rats to detect landmines and tuberculosis.

You can reach Morogoro from Dar Es Salaam by train, a new line launched in June 2024 connecting Dar to Dodoma and beyond (https://www.trc.co.tz/). Alternatively, you can drive by car via the highway, although it’s a busy and challenging route due to the heavy traffic of buses and trucks.  

A recommended stay is Edelwyss-inn, which sits on the slopes of the Uluguru Mountains. It offers beautiful city views, a swimming pool, and a restaurant serving international dishes like Swiss fondue or pizza on weekends, as well as local cuisine. The final stretch to reach it can be challenging by car, but motorbike drivers at the base of the mountain are available and experienced with the route. Other dining options include: Giga Pandas (Chinese), Nashera hotel (try the chicken burger or club sandwich), Morogoro Hotel (Indian) and Arc Hotel, where you can enjoy the sizzler, a local dish.

Mikumi national park

Mikumi National Park is smaller than Nyerere and Ruaha National Parks, but it is the most accessible from Dar Es Salaam. Its proximity makes it a popular choice for day trrips, especially for tourists flying in from Zanzibar. On weekends, you will also find more local visitors heading out to enjoy the park.

A highway runs right through Mikumi, making it possible to spot wildlife from the road. That said, stopping along the highway isn't allowed for safety reasons, signs warn of heavy fines for hitting animals. The road also divides Mikumi into two distinct landscapes. On the side with the main park entrance, wide-open savannah plains stretch out, giving you excellent chances to see wildlife. The other side is much wilder with denser vegetation, offering a more secluded and challenging wildlife-spotting experience, and is directly connected to Nyerere National Park.

If you are driving from Morogoro to Mikumi, keep an eye out for souvenir stops around Melela and Mangae. Near Melela, there is a large open area with two buildings (6°56'49.3"S 37°20'42.4"E) on the left side of the road, one sells colourful paintings and the other beautiful woodcraft. You’ll also notice rows of baskets hanging along the roadside. Instead of pulling over on the highway, it’s worth taking a quick detour into the nearby village.

When it comes to accommodation, Camp Bastian and Tan-Swiss Lodge are two popular options just outside the park. Both offer a mix of cottages and campsites, swimming pools, and the convenience of arranging safari drives for their guests.

Iringa

Iringa is a high-altitude city in Tanzania and therefore enjoys a cooler climate than the surrounding lowlands. The drive from Morogoro through Mikumi to Iringa offers scenic views along a river lined with baobab trees. Be prepared, though: the journey includes a challenging mountain pass, where traffic often slows as trucks struggle on the steep slopes. Iringa is an ideal stopover on the way to Ruaha National Park. We stayed at Iringa Sunset Hotel and enjoyed a delicious Italian dinner at Mama Iringa. It is also worth visiting Neema’s café, which is part of a project that provides employment opportunities for people with disabilities. Adjacent to the café there is a craft shop selling handmade items made by artisans with disabilities and every purchase supports their empowerment.

Ruaha National Park

Ruaha, named after the Great Ruaha River that flows through it, is one of Tanzania’s true hidden gems. After Nyerere, it is one of the largest parks in the country, featuring diverse habitats that range from savannah plains to striking rock formations and dried riverbanks.  A one-day safari hardly does justice to this expansive wilderness. Ideally, you should go deeper into the park by changing accommodation along the way, allowing you to explore its varied circuits and fully appreciate its beauty. Ruaha also offers the unique opportunity to go on walking safaris.

The park can be accessed by scheduled flights or by car via Iringa. For those traveling by road, it’s recommended to begin your safari tour from Iringa, as the route to Ruaha is off the beaten track. During our trip, we stayed at one of the park’s own provided accommodations, which was a great experience. At the Ruaha tourist bandaz, next to the river there is also a nice bar to hang out during lunch, while you can spot animals. 

Udzungwa National Park

Udzungwa National Park is part of the Eastern Arc Mountains, has lush tropical rainforest and is a biodiversity hotspot, making it an ideal destination for nature lovers and hikers. One of the highlights of the park is a guided trek to the 170-metre-high Sanje Falls, where visitors can enjoy breathtaking views of the surrounding green plains and even swim at the top of the waterfall. The park is also home to several endemic species, including the red colobus monkey, which you can see if you make arrangements in advance so that the guides have time to track them down. Udzungwa is about 3 to 4 hours drive from Morogoro making it a viable day trip.

Saadani National Park

Saadani National Park offers a unique combination of open grasslands with pristine coastal beaches, where endangered Green Sea turtles nest, and it features a mangrove forest. This park has something for everyone. You can embark on a game drive in the savannah part of the park, followed by a relaxing afternoon on the beach. Most animals do occur here, although the numbers are lower than in other parks. In addition, you can alternate your day with a boat safari through the mangroves where you can spot hippos, crocodiles and kingfishers. You can also watch turtles come out of their nests, guided and protected by local experts. The park is accessible by car from Dar Es Salaam.