Panama in Two Weeks

Panama, located in Central America, borders both the Caribbean Sea and the Pacific Ocean and offers a diverse mix of natural landscapes (beaches, islands and hills) and activities, such as water sports and hiking. I visited Panama on a two-week solo trip in March 2024, with warm temperatures around 30 °C. If you are coming from the winter season in Europe, be prepared for the intensity of the sun in Panama! You can read about the places I explored and what I did there.

Panama City

When travelling to Panama, you will probably start in Panama city or pass through it when you visit different countries in Central America.

City centre

In Panama City, the old and the new are linked by the scenic Cinta Costera, a waterfront boulevard perfect for walking or cycling. At one end, you will find Casco Viejo, the city's vibrant historic district and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. With its lively plazas, charming brick-paved streets, and colourful colonial buildings, it's best explored on foot. Along the way, you'll find plenty of great places to eat such as Mahalo Cocina y Jardin and trendy rooftop bars such as Lazotea.

As you stroll through Casco Viejo, be sure to visit La Calle de los Sombreros, a cute little street decorated with hanging heads. It leads to a small plaza surrounded by a promenade, where market stalls and scenic viewpoints await.

Since I was staying in the modern part of Panama City, I spent a morning walking to Casco Viejo via the Cinta Costera. Along the way, I passed a few interesting spots like the elevated SkyPadel court and the bustling Mercado de Marisco fish market. Once in Casco Viejo, I enjoyed a relaxed lunch and wandered through the historic streets before catching an Uber back. Pro tip: traffic in Casco Viejo can get packed, so for a quicker pickup, it’s best to head to the edges of the neighborhood where cars can reach you more easily.

For dinner back in the modern part of the city, you can check out the food truck park (Parking y Food Trucks) or grab a slice at Barrio Pizza. And for coffee or a light lunch, I would recommend Café Unido.

Beyond the buzz of the city centre

Two other activities to fill your time in Panama City are a visit to Calzada de Amador (Amador Causeway) and Isla Taboga. The Amador Causeway is a scenic road that connects Panama City to four small islands. You can get there easily by Uber or the local ride app InDrive. Getting back can take a bit longer, though, as there tend to be fewer drivers in the area, but it is still doable. At the start of the causeway, you can rent a bicycle from Bicicletas moses and ride along it, enjoying views of the Bridge of the Americas (the gateway to the Panama Canal) and the city skyline. There is also a museum showcasing Panama’s biodiversity and natural history, the BioMuseo, plus several casual spots to grab a bite along the way.

Isla Taboga, known as the “Island of Flowers”, is just 20 km from Panama City and can be easily reached by the Taboga Express Ferry from Fuerte Amador in about 30 minutes. You can check the latest ferry schedule at tabogaexpress.com. The island is a perfect escape from the city, offering charming streets to explore, hiking opportunities and relaxing beaches.  

I went to Fuerte Amador half an hour before the departure time and bought my ticket there, which was fine since it was a weekday. However, the slots for the return trip filled up quickly. They will make sure you have a return ticket, but those who book early get first pick of return times. On weekends, the ferry tends to be busier with locals, so then it might be smart to book in advance.

San Blas islands

The San Blas Islands are an archipelago of 357 islands off the Caribbean coast of Panama. They are part of the Panamanian province of Guna Yala and are therefore also called the Guna Yala Islands. Most of these islands are small, dotted with palm trees and surrounded by pristine white beaches and clear blue waters. Only a few of the larger islands are fully build up, and these are home to the Guna people, who continue to maintain their traditional way of life.

There are several tours available from Panama City to the San Blas islands, from overnight stays on an island to multi-day boat trips. Booking a tour is by far the most convenient way to visit, as drivers will pick you up in Panama City, navigate the route to the protected region (for which you need your passport to enter) and drop you off at the specific spot where you will be transferred by boat to the booked island or sailboat.

I chose a two-night stay on Isla Yani through San Blas Dreams. San Blas Dreams offers flexibility with various islands and durations. Sailing trips often require at least three nights or more. These tours include pick-up and drop off in Panama City, boat transfers to and from your chosen stay, meals, tours during your stay, and accommodation.

I picked Yani Island because it was smaller, more remote and the accommodation looked more comfortable to me.  The food was good, mainly fish and rice. From the small dock, I could even spot reef sharks and rays in the clear water. The excursion included a trip to a shipwreck for snorkeling and a natural pool.

When you are picked-up in Panama City, you may share the car with other travelers going to different islands. But the tours are well organized, so the drivers know exactly where to drop off each guest. They often stop at a gas station with a small shop along the way, but they recommend going to the shop in Panama City beforehand for snacks and drinks. Depending on your tour, it’s also a good idea to leave larger luggage in Panama City and travel with a small bag, ideally waterproof, for the boat trip.

When I arrived on the island in the morning, I made myself comfortable, enjoyed lunch and joined the excursion. I spent the next full day relaxing on the island and left the following morning. You also have the option to check out late. I was the only one leaving at that time and the guides took me by one of the main Guna islands to drop something off at a family member’s house. This gave me the opportunity to get a closer look at the main islands, which was very impressive.

El Valle de Anton

El Valle de Anton, often simply called ‘El Valle’,  is a beautiful mountain town nestled in the crater of an extinct volcano. It’s the ideal destination for hiking and nature. You can easily get there by from the Gran Terminal nacionale De Transporte in Albrook Mall, Panama City. The ride usually takes 2 to 3 hours, and tickets can be purchased directly at the station. There is no fixed timetable, but buses generally leave every 30 minutes, so you won’t have to wait long. After buying your ticket, head through the gates to find your bus. The station is quite large, but buses usually leave from designated stand. If you are unsure, don’t hesitate to ask someone.

Once in El Valle, there are several scenic trails to choose from. I did the El Cerro La Silla hike at sunset and Cerro La Gaita the following morning.

El Cerro La Silla follows the ridge of the old volcano and offers stunning views of the town below. You can either walk to the starting point from the town center or take a short local bus ride. Once you reach the ridge, the trial becomes narrow and it can get quite windy. As the sun begins to set, the hills are lit up in glowing shades of yellow and orange. You can bring along some drinks and take your time at the top, but make sure to descend before it gets too dark.  

Cerro La Gaita hike is a little more off the beaten track but absolutely worth it for its breathtaking views and quieter trail. The hike takes you through dense forest and lead to a viewing platform at the top with panoramic views over the surrounding hills. This trail is located a bit further from El Valle itself. If you have a car, it’s an easy drive; otherwise, buses may get you partway there. We ended up hitchhiking with a friendly group of Panamanian tourists we met along the way who were doing the same hike. Your accommodation can likely help with more specific info about bus routes and trail access.

After a day of hiking, you can treat yourself to tasty Italian food at L'italiano Ristorante, enjoy refreshing shakes and yoghurt bowls at Cocolatte El Valle or Chinese takeaway at Restaurante Lucky Star.

Santa Catalina

Santa Catalina is a small coastal town on Panama’s Pacific coast, known for its laid-back surf vibe and the gateway to the beautiful Coiba National Park . It’s quite remote, so if you’re not traveling by car, you’ll need to plan ahead. The bus journey involves a few transfers, but it is manageable. From your previous location, you first need to go to Santiago de Veraguas. From there you take the bus to Soná, and in Soná you take the bus to Santa Catalina. Your accommodation host can likely help you figure out which buses to take. Sometimes there are shuttle options that go directly to Santa Catalina, depending on demand. You can search for these online or ask it at your accommodation.

The buses usually have two destinations listed on the front of each bus – one for each direction the bus travels. If you are not sure which bus to take, you can always check with locals when in doubt. When I traveled from El Valle, the journey took about seven hours and I didn’t have to wait long between transfers. You will need cash to pay on the bus.  

In Santa Catalina, there is a long sandy beach nearby called Playa El Estero, perfect for beginner surfers as the waves are gentler here. If you are looking for surf lessons, you could check out Hotel Oasis & Surf Camp. The beach is about a 20-minute walk from the main street, but since Santa Catalina is a popular surf town, you can also try hitchhiking. There are often trucks with open cargo beds that offer a ride if you wave them down. At high tide, you may have to walk through some water to reach the beach, but this is usually only up to knee height. For beginners, it is best to surf in the morning, when conditions are more favorable. By noon, the wind often picks up, creating stronger currents that are harder to control. Oasis Surf Camp also has a bar that hosts karaoke nights on Wednesdays and and a lively Saturday night party.  

Coiba National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and a paradise of islands and marine protected areas, with vibrant coral reefs, abundant marine life (including sharks, rays, and whales) and pristine beaches. You can book daytrips (snorkeling or diving) through most accommodations.

I joined the one-day snorkeling tour, which started with a scenic 1,5 hour boat ride to reach the protected area. We snorkeled at three different spots: two with lots of different fish and reef sharks, while the third was home to turtles. We also visited two islands. The first was Coiba Island, which was used as a prison until 2004. We had lunch here, hiked to a viewpoint, and spotted capybaras and monkeys. The second stop was Coibita Island, where you can see crocodiles and a large group of hermit crabs. On the boat trip back, we were lucky to spot dolphins. With a bit of luck, you might also spot whale sharks, manta rays, or even humpback whales, depending on the season. 

Bocas Del Toro

Bocas Del Toro is an archipelago located on the Caribbean coast of Panama, close to the border with Costa Rica. It consists of several main islands and many smaller islets, surrounded by coral reefs and mangrove forests. I stayed on Isla Colón, the main island and home to Bocas Town, as well as Isla Bastimentos, a more laid-back spot known for Red Frog Beach. I went from Santa Catalina to Bocas del Toro by shuttle arranged through the accommodation I stayed in. It’s a long travel day of about eight hours. It is also possible to travel by buses, which is much cheaper, though a stopover with an overnight stay is recommended. The final stretch also involves a boat ride. I would strongly recommend using a waterproof cover for your bag—many people arrive with wet gear.

Isla Colon is the most accessible island with the most amenities. There are some small markets for food, shops, restaurants, and ATMs that are usually not available on other islands. From here you can easily move to other islands with the water taxis. Every Friday, there is a big island-hopping party crawl ‘Filthy Friday’. This is one big party which includes transits between three different islands. You can buy tickets in Bocas or online. If a full day of partying isn’t your thing, you can always just join one of the afterparties back in Bocas Town later that evening. It is also nice to explore the island by bicycle or motorbike and move along the beautiful coastline towards Bluff Beach. The road is mostly a dirt path with sand and stones, so if you’re not used to riding a motorcycle, a bicycle is the safer option. On the way you also pass several bars and food options.

Isla Bastimentos was my last stop in Panama, and I spent a relaxing final day here. It is a ten-minute water taxi ride from Isla Colón. If you are lucky, you can spot the island’s tiny red frogs.

It is possible to fly back from Isla Colón to Panama City, you can check flights on AirPanama.

What my itinerary looked like:

Day 1: Panama city

Late arrival

Day 2: Panama city

Cinta Costera & Casco Viejo

Day 3: San Blas Islands

Afternoon arrival Snorkel & sand bank Tour

Day 4: San Blas Islands

Relax & read

Day 5: Panama City

Morning: return from San Blas

Afternoon: Fuerta Amador

Day 6: El Valle de Antón

Morning: bus from Panama City

Afternoon: Hiking Cerro La Silla

Day 7: El Valle de Antón

Hiking Cerro La Gaita

Day 8: Santa Catalina

Long travel day

Day 9: Santa Catalina

Coiba National Park snorkeling tour

Day 10: Santa Catalina

Surf, relax & read

Day 11: Bocas del Toro

Long travel day

Day 12: Isla Colón

Explore town & Filthy Friday

Day 13: Isla Colón

Explore the island by bike & transfer by water taxi to Isla Bastimentos

Day 14: Isla Bastimentos

Relax & read at red frog beach

Day 15: Isla Bastimentos

Afternoon return to Isla Colón and fly back to Panama City

Day 16: Panama City

Isla Taboga & late departure